Peru, Machu Picchu

No trip to Peru is complete without visiting Machu Picchu. It is so special that this is where we got engaged!

We recommend staying in Aguas Calientes, the closest town to Machu Picchu for a night so you don't have to do it all in one day and can have some time at the site before the tour groups arrive.

Unfortunately getting to Machu Picchu is going to cost you. There are only two ways to get there. Either walk the Inca Trail which takes either 2 or 4 days. We have had good reviews for SAS from people who've done it but can't vouch for them ourselves.
The only other option is to take the train with Peru Rail.
There are a few trains a day that make the 3 hour trip from Cuzco to Aguas Calientes.
The cheapest is the backpacker train which costs US$65.45 return and leaves Cuzco at 06:15 and returns from Aguas Calientes at 15:55. You do get a snack and a hot drink. Take warm clothes as the train is cold.

The other option is to go a Sacred Valley tour and be dropped off at Ollantaytambo and spend the night. There are cheaper trains from Ollantaytambo to Aguas Caliente. See the website.
You could of course go the luxury route and take the Hiram Bingham train for US$476 but at least dinner and a few drinks are included!

You need to book the train tickets at Huanchac Train Station but the train actually leaves from San Pedro station. The ticket queues are long and the process very slow so allow about an hour. You need your passport.

Once you've arrived at Aguas Calientes, you need to buy your ticket to the site. This can only be done in the town and not at the site entrance itself so buy this before going up. There is a ticket office next to the church on the main square. The ticket costs US$25 (77 soles). The office is open early before the first bus goes up but we bought ours the day before just in case.

Then you need to take a bus up to Machu Picchu itself. This costs US$12 (80 Soles) return. The first bus leaves from Shuttle Bus Road (you should see the buses lined up) at 5:30 and you can either buy your ticket in advance or when you get there. You can't take large rucksacks into Machu Picchu and there is a cloak room where you can leave your bags for 5 soles. The site itself opens at 6am.

Once in Machu Picchu, follow the red trail which takes you around the site. When we arrived the whole place was covered in fog so we couldn't see a thing but during the morning the fog cleared and it is truly amazing. Don't just sit above the site at the Hut of the Caretaker of the Funerary Rock (the spot with the classic postcard view) waiting for it to clear. Head down and go along the red trail and at least see everything close up before there are too many people around. We didn't bother climbing Huanya Picchu because it was foggy so we wouldn't have seen anything.

Buses queue up to take you down when you're finished.

Fancy Hotel Machu Picchu Ruinas is at the entrance. They do an expensive buffet lunch or you can go to the a la carte restaurant next door which is nicer and doesn't have a canteen feel. We did splurge and have some bubbly as we had just got engaged!

There are lots of restaurants in Aguas Calientes but unfortunately you can get very bad service and prices. Touts lure you into a restaurant and offer you a 3 beers for the price of 1 special but then charge you 15 soles which is exactly the same as ordering 3 beers at 5 soles. Ask in advance. Also we had at least 2 places add a 10% "tax" at the end of the bill. This is actually a service charge and you can ignore it unless you really want to tip. The places we went to didn't deserve a tip at all.